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Ludmilla Tueting: ‘My Heart Is Nepali’
Ludmilla Tüting is a strong, well-read, emancipated, bespectacled Teutonic woman who does not hide the fact that she lives in the Berlin Hinterhof (courtyard) in Kreuzberg (West Berlin) and longs to see a skyline, especially with pagoda silhouettes. in the distance It almost seems that Berlin is a city with a lost horizon.
It runs between Kathmandu and Berlin, and is very active in the field of ‘sanfte’ (soft) tourism, which means visual tourism. On May 27, 1996, he spent his 50th birthday with his Nepali friends at the Thangpoch monastery. He is concerned about the negative aspects of tourism, and writes the information service ‘Turismoaar Begirada’. For potential tourists in the German-speaking world, he is a Nepal specialist, and cares about Nepal’s cultural and natural heritage, as evident in his travel books.
I met him at the Volkerkunde Museum in Freiburg, the southwestern metropolis of the Black Forest, and it was a series of lectures called ‘Contemporary Painting Nepal’ to promote the cultural and religious development of Nepal.
Ludmilla Tüting spoke about ‘Fascinating Nepal, sunny and shady sides’ and presented slides and information and described Nepal as a wonderful country.
And the other topic was ‘Tourism with a View is not required: Ecological damage through Tourism in Nepal’ and that was more or less what the interested Nepalese will find in ‘Bikas-Binas’, a thought provoking book. Ecological aspects of Nepal, especially Himalayan environmental pollution, published by Mrs. Tüting and my college friend Kunda Dixit, renowned Nepalese journalists, who has been the Executive Director of the International Press Service for decades and is also the editor and publisher of The Nepali magazine. The times
Mrs. Tüting’s speech, delivered with what the Germans call Berlin-lip (Berlinerschnauze), has both pedagogical and practical value, and not only did she try to show what a foreign tourist does wrong in Nepal, but suggested how tourists should behave and dress in Nepal. All in all it looked like a German protocol book called ‘Knigge’ for potential travelers to Nepal.
In the past there have been many transparency presentations and lectures led by the Badische Zeitung, the University of Freiburg and the Volkshochschule with jet-set gurus, rimpoches, meditation, ‘boksas et boksis’, shamanism, Tibetan experts. lamaism, tai-chi, taoism, yen-oriented-zen and what-have-yous. The fact is that every Hans-Rudi-and-Fritz who has been in Nepal or the Himalayas acts as an expert in matters related to the House of Snow.
Some care to do a bit of research and some don’t, and the result is a series of howls. Like the guy who wrote his dissertation on Nepali traditions and gave a slide show in the University eye clinic auditorium. The images of rural Nepal were, as usual, breathtaking. They showed a slide of Pokhara, Kathmandu, Jomsom, Khumbu area and then Bhimsen pillar and our expert said, “That is the only mosque in Nepal”.
Or a doctor from the Swabian expedition in Stuttgart gave a vortrag (lecture) in the university’s audi-max (auditorium maximum). A color slide of a large team of Nepali goalkeepers appeared on the screen. The porters watched the members of the Alpine expedition eat their sumptuous dinner, with every European dish imaginable and the comment was, “Nepalese are used to eating once a day, so they watch us while we eat” (sic). A decent German sitting next to me named Dr. Petersen, who was a professor of microbiology, said, “Solche Geschmacklosigkeit!” (lack of flavor or finesse), but it didn’t seem to bother our Swabian Himalayan hero. Most Nepalese eat two large meals: lunch and dinner, with quite a few snacks thrown in between. And when you visit a Nepali home, you are offered hot tea and snacks, depending on the wealth and status of the family.
Every time I heard such mean, thoughtful remarks I would groan and my blood pressure would rise and my EKG would record tachycardia and I would probably develop ulcers. Oh, my mucous membrane. The remedy would be to avoid such stresses in the form of a slide show, but I couldn’t. I had to say to myself: burn down, old boy, the scenery is beautiful. And it is. If not for the mesmerizing beauty of the Nepalese countryside and the artistic and cultural treasures of the Kathmandu Valley… One should wear earplugs (Oxopax) and enjoy the views of Nepal’s splendor: its uniqueness, its ever-smiling people. the call of the British, a stiff upper lip, and what the Germans call ‘sich nie runter kriegen lassen’, despite the war between government troops and the Maoists in the past.
Another time a European couple came to my apartment with a thick album full of pictures of Gods and Goddesses and wanted the “experts” to identify what and where they had taken them in Nepal. Published as a pictorial book on the temples of Nepal. Some experts, I thought. The pair resembled Freak street junkies in the early seventies. Like the legendary Nepalese, one helped where one could, even after they left I had to shake my head.
Ludmilla has been going to Nepal since 1974. However, when you remind him of his “world traveler” image in those days, he likes to forget everything, apparently because he made some mistakes and learned from them. past. And now ecology seems to be his passion. He wants to ‘sensitize’ potential tourists through his slideshows, TV appearances and draw attention to Nepalese etiquette rules to make them feel at home in Nepal despite the culture shock and change.
‘Tourists are terrorists’ flashes across the screen, and Ludmilla explains that she painted graffiti on the Berlin Wall in Kreuzberg. Every time a tourist visits another country, he receives a culture shock: the language barrier, the question of mentality, foreign customs, and as a result, they return to their countries loaded with many prejudices. It then shows busloads of tourists making pottery around Hanuman Dhoka Palace. He says some tourists were upset when he took the photos. Tourists seem to reserve the right to photograph each country and its inhabitants as something normal, without asking for permission. “Wir haben schon bezalt!” is their argument. Doesn’t it reek of cultural imperialism, after the slogan: I paid for the trip in dollars, marks, francs and yen, so you need locals and you need to pose for me. The point is that tourists pay travel agencies in Frankfurt, Munich, Stuttgart or Kathmandu, and not the people and objects they are photographing. Payment allows you to land in a country, but how it plays out in a foreign country is another matter.
“Today it is possible to go around the world in 18 days,” he says, “and everywhere you have people always in a great hurry.” He speaks for self-taught globetrotters and writes books with secret tips on how to get the most out of your limited budget. A poor porter appears with a mountain of cooking utensils and this leads Ludmilla to speak of a certain expedition leader’s successful ascent to the summit of the Himalayas, “we would have no loss.” Only one keeper died’. He then reminds the audience that doormen do not have health insurance or accident insurance or pensions in the German sense.
“Funeral pyres at Pashupatinath are a perennial theme for tourists,” says Ludmilla with a groan, describing tourists with cameras at the ghats. “You wouldn’t want a foreign visitor to take over the burial ceremony of your near and dear ones, would you?” asks Ludmilla.
It was interesting to know that there is a video hut along the Jomsom trail at Tatopani for the benefit of local Nepalis, trekking tourists and their porters. “I saw ‘Gandhi’ on this tour,” he said, meaning Sir Attenborough’s film. You can also watch the latest Hollywood and Bollywood movies up there. Pico Iyer’s ‘Video Night in Kathmandu’ may still be an interesting read for the Nepalophile, as he has ‘a knack for recording every shimmy’. A poster advertising the ‘Thrilling Animal Sacrifice Dakshinkali’ in ‘Bikas-Binas’ (development-destruction) asked about the so-called ‘thrilling, romantic, thrilling, action-packed’ box office cocktail produced on Bollywood celluloid. DVD factories.
“If you want to meet and get to know people, you have to travel slowly,” says Ludmilla Tüting. He then talks about the wonders of the polaroid camera at the Nepalese customs office. Men are ruled by toys. He says: “If you take a picture of a customs officer and give him a picture, you will pass the barrier without difficulty.”
Does tourism mean foreign exchange for Nepal? Apparently not, he says, with food imported from Australia, lighting from Holland, whiskey from Scotland, air conditioning from Canada. It shows Pokhara in 1974. Corrugated iron sheets are being transported on the backs of porters to build small mountain restaurants along the Jomsom trail.
A Gurung woman in her traditional dress, frying delicious circular sel-rotis in the open air in her tea shop, appears and good old Ludmilla advises the viewer on the benefits and advantages of acquiring immunity or strengthening it with gamma globulin. tetanus shots before a trip to the Himalayas.
After the show I went with Ludmilla to a bar in Freiburg called Zum Störchen for a drink and a chat. Toni Hagen, a Lenzerheide geologist-turned-development worker with a dual Ph.D. and from 1950 to 1987 he was billed to speak on development in Nepal and the role of development cooperation, also supported by us. Toni Hagen was a celebrity in Nepal for her pioneering geological work and publication. Alas, Hagen died sometime after taking part in an autobiographical film. Ingrid Kreid, who was in a hurry to return to the colony, gave a lecture on the history of the Thanka painters and the freedom of art in the Himalayan Kingdom of Nepal, and expressed her deep concern about the theft of temples and ritual objects in Nepal.
Ludmilla is a world traveler, journalist, a name to reckon with in the German-speaking world as an expert on Nepal and a critic of the alternative travel scene. And he still fights for the rights of the poor in South Asia. He was a supporter of the Chipko movement in India and condemned deforestation, ecological damage, fought for the human rights of Tibetans and Nepalese, wrote about the development and destruction of countries called the Third World. He once told Edith Kresta, travel editor of the Tageszeitung (TAZ, Berlin): “My heart is Nepali, the rest is German.” His base camp in Kathmandu is the Vajra Hotel, run by Sabine Lehmann, a hotel with a theatrical flair, who is currently working on a novel about climbing. He wants to emulate the characters in James Hilton’s novel The Lost Horizon, where people grow very old and don’t worry about gerontological issues. He wants to live at least 108 years on this planet. We can only admire and wish for his efforts and pedagogical criticism.
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